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FRAMING YOUR WATERCOLOUR PICTURE - Page 1 of 3
The choice of framing a watercolour painting yourself or taking it to a framer passes many artist minds at some point. Like many things in life, there is not simple or easy answer but it can be broken down into number of areas to make the choice.
The first thing to consider is cost, while you will/should be able to make the frames cheaper, how many pictures do you need to frame before the cost of the equipment bought is recovered (even for the basic 'hobby' level it's a few hundred pounds/dollars). In many cases the only real saving will be that of the labour (labor).
The second is time, can you afford the time away from painting (or the many other things in life) to cover the saving you are making (this is double edged, as more paintings to be framed equals more time to frame them but also leads to greater savings).
The third is space, to have the equipment to do a professional job (which I think should be the goal) a room no smaller than 8 foot x 16 foot is needed. This contains the equipment listed below, plus the storage of all the materials (stored in the correct conditions - i.e. not a damp shed or garage) listed on page 2.
I would highly recommend a training course in framing or lots of advice from a number of framers before you buy any equipment. The courses can be from one day to a week and cover specific sections of the framing process or the whole process (from beginners to professional level). This will give you a better understanding of what's involved and more importantly, do you enjoy doing the framing.
Morsø - the standard machine used for mitering and the machine I use. This machine is foot-operated - by pressing down on a bar, the two knifes then cut through the moulding. A lever on the right hand side moves the knife block (horizontal) as you cut sections out. A longitudinal stop and measuring scale (not shown on picture) ensure accurate work. A second set of knifes is useful, for when you send the main set away for sharpening (needs to be done often).
The more expensive option is the Mitre Saw, which has two circular saws that cut through the moulding, starting at about twice the cost of the Morsø and increasing to ten times for the top of the range model.
These machines are used for fastening the moulding sections together to make the frame. Can be either foot or air operated and insert from underneath 'W' or 'V' shaped wedges (usually two or more - depending on the moulding size) that hold together two sections of molding. Repeated for all corners.
The foot-operated versions are more basic, usually having to hold (by hand) the moulding while pressing down with your leg to insert the wedge via a lever arrangement. The air-operated versions have advanced over the years and now hold the sections of moulding in place as the wedges are inserted, adjusting for height, width etc automatically.
Mountcutters today come in many varieties, from the humble handheld models (for the hobby market) to the very sophisticated "all bells and whistles" electronic computer controlled versions. This equipment is used for two jobs - the first is to trim the board to the correct size and second to produce the 45º bevel sides for the window, again to the correct size and location. Other cutters are used for circles or ovals. I use a KeenCut cutter that is mounted into one end of a specially constructed bench that is larger than a full sheet of mountboard. The bench needs to be at the correct working height, plus this area is also used for decorating the mounts/mats (lining etc). A good supply of blades is needed - I change after every five mounts/mats cut and certainly after cutting backing board.
KeenCut produce a range aimed at the more advanced to professional framer with the 'Artist Plus' as the base model model. Other Mount or Matcutters are available from Fletcher, Alto's, Daler, Speed-Mat plus others.
At the top end of the market this piece of equipment usually stands nearly vertical against a wall and the cutter slides up and down a bar to score the glass. Lower down some form of hand held cutter, one with a tungsten carbide wheel - lubricated with oil (refillable) is the best option - used with a metal straight edge or in combination with your Mountcutter/Matcutter.
Needless to say, care is needed both in the cutting, snapping, moving (avoid banging two pieces of glass together - the corners will scratch and ruin the other piece), cleaning (if possible not where you cut your board - use a different table) etc of the glass, wear special gloves and take your time.
Point Guns - one gun is needed for straight points (framers points - long or glaziers points - short) and another gun for flexipoints. If the glass, mount & backing board fall within the depth of the moulding a straight point is used, if the glass etc come close to the edge, flexi points are inserted and bent to hold the glass etc in place.
The other equipment needed is more general. Things like stanley knifes, metal rulers, screwdrivers, cleaning products, brushes etc
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Fletcher Framemaster Gun (L) and Fletcher Flex Gun (R)